I don't have a honeymoon period with this country

Epic journeys began last night, as it were. Realized that I hadn't eaten anything in a good 36 hours except for an acer manga, a mango juice that is, essentially, pureed mango and is probably just like eating one. However, the Basha-- the restaurant literally downstairs from me, and by restaurant I mean take-out place-- fized up some good kebab and kofta for me, all for what amounted to four bucks.

I walked around today (we have orientation at the university in an hour) and discovered something of the charm of the city. I'll admit, it's not the most beautiful place in the world (it has massive potential for developers, seriously), even with the ocean right there. The thing I can't get over is all the garbage-- people drop their trash right where they stand and don't give it a second thought. There's an enormous dust problem here, and the Egyptians cope with it by splashing water on the sidewalks and streets and trees and basically everything, making things muddy instead of dusty.

I can't recall who said it, but someone described the "charm" of Alex as being its "decay." Somehow it fits. It's like living in a dive-- I suppose the charm is something akin to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that's always had good food. It just is great, and somehow you can ignore the grime on the walls. Nevertheless, I notice. But I feel it growing on me.

I sat in an ahwa early this morning and watched the shops open. Eventually the gardner from one of the local sporting clubs sat down next to me and we started up something resembling a conversation between my broken Egyptian (he knew VERY little fusha) and his occasional attempts at English. All in all, it was a 75 cent conversation-- three Egyptian pounds for my two cups of tea and the mutual hookah.

A note on Egyptian tea: it's ridiculously strong. The leaves are boiled directly in the cup and left loose, and they add a lot of sugar, with no milk. Most of the time it's serve with a glass of water so you don't go nuts. But it's quite good, once you get over the questionably clean glasses its served in.

In addition to that, a note on sheesha-- I've never gotten buzzed from the tobacco in it, but maybe that's just because I've smoked the American stuff. Whoa. I was reeling around in my seat from how strong it was. Might have something to do with the coals resting directly on the tobacco itself, lending the molasses an acute, but pleasant charcoal flavor.

We're touring the city today and eating with some big wigs. I have to find a bank to change more money (and get smaller bills. Baksheeshes are killing me). More tomorrow if I get the chance (language pledge takes effect in the evening).